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Thursday September 9, 2010 















Rome
Off the beaten path
Tomba di Cecilia Metella - Apt Roma
On the border between legend and history, the archaeological site of the Ancient Ostia reveals, with the Theatre, the Capitolium and the ruins of the Old Port, the glorious past of a colony that become strategically fundamental for Rome. Then the via Appia Antica, masterpiece of engineering, flanked by the popular funeral monuments, as Cecilia Metella's tomb, and ancient roman villas. Finally the Tiber with its bridges and the magnificent monuments that reflect their image into it, an original way to get to know the city.

First Day
The monuments of Ostia Antica, the Decumanus Maximus, the Theatre, the objects and furnishings of the Archaeological Museum
 
The Domus of Eros and Psyche, the ancient gardens and the blocks of buildings, then Porta Marina which led to the sea
 
Wine of the castles and lively atmosphere in Campo dei Fiori, the a walk in the streets of Rome with a vista from Piazza del Quirinale
Second Day
   
Via Appia Antica, masterpiece of engineering along which many monuments stand, amongst which there is the Grave of Cecilia Metella
 
The funeral monuments of the Orazi and Curiazi, on what is thought to be the battlefield of the legendary fight for the supremacy in Rome
 
Typical cuisine with the strong taste of the Roman tradition, and symphonic music at the Academy of Santa Cecilia
Third Day
   
Rome on the Lungotevere, its monuments, the elegant bridges, the aristocratic villas, like the Renaissance villa della Farnesina
 
From Palazzo Farnese to the Tiberina Island, then the Bocca della verità (the mouth of truth), the Pyramid of Caius Cestius and the Basilica of San Paolo fuori le mura
 
Magic moments elapse, contemplating the magnificent Fontana di Trevi, with its water games, lit during the night



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 Rome

Coliseum - Rome

Roman Theatre in Ostia - Apt Rome

Capitolium in Ostia - Apt Rome

 
 
 
Off the beaten path
First Day

Morning
A few kilometres away from Rome there is the popular archaeological site,
Ostia Antica, Roman colony overlooking the mouth of the Tiber which had a predominant strategic role from a defensive, military and commercial point of view. Here the first harbour of Rome was built. From via Ostiense the route leading to the exploration of the ancient community starts. At the entrance, on the left
there are the graveyard with millenary tombs, with various shapes and from different periods, amongst which the Tomb of the Architects stands out. Further on, on the right, we can see the Roman Door, from the Republican period, which gives access to Piazzale della Vittoria. In front of us stands the Decumanus Maximus, which is the main street of the city and leads to the sea. From here starts a line of constructions, which were once used as thermal baths, stores, houses. Popular Is the Block of buildings of Monus the dog, which owes its name to a mosaic configuration, like the Neptune Thermal Baths, where the different rooms can still be distinguished. We turn to via dei Vigili to contemplate the remains of a mosaic, symbol of the four Provinces and the four Winds. When we arrive in via delle Corporazioni, we can see the well-kept remains of the Theatre,built during the reign of Augustus. Behind it there is the Palazzo delle Corporazioni, with the stationes of the corporations and colonial cities which were related to Ostia. Then we find the Domus of Apuleius and, further on in via Diana and then via dei Dipinti, we reach the Ostia Archaeological Museum.
The building contains interesting documents of the life of the period: objects, furnishings, fragments of mosaics and statues. We continue heading towards the Forum were is situated Hadrian's Capitolium, erected on other ruins, and the Temple of Rome and Augustus. Opposite there is the Cardio Maximus, secondary street which crosses the Decumanus. We visit the Thermal baths of the Forum, dating back to the 2nd century AD, frequented by the elite of the city and we contemplate the magnificent frigidarium. On the other side there is the Basilica and the marvellous Round Temple, a sort of Pantheon.On the other side of the Decumanus, there is the Block of buildings of the Larario, used as a Bazar, with internal stores.
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Remaisn of Ostia Antica - Apt Rome

Temple in the Roman Forum - Rome

The Tiber - Rome

 
 
First Day
Rome: Off the beaten path

Afternoon
At the Bivio Castrum, on the right we can see the sacred area of the Republican Temples. The Domus with Eros and Psyche must be accurately visited, with its monumental nymphaeum, an internal garden, marvellous mosaics and multicoloured marble floors. On the left of the Bivio Castrum, along via Calcara, visitors can see: a place dedicated to Mythra with its painted walls, the Block of Buildings of Serapis, the Block of buildings of the Charioteers and the Trinacria thermal baths. Going through via del Tempio di Serapide we can see the Block of buildings of Bacchus and Ariadne and the Temple of Jupiter Serapis. We turn in via Cardo degli Aurighi, where we can access the area of the Garden Houses of the Hadrian period, collocated like a miniature garden city. Not far away stands the Porta Marina, after which there is the Prospetto a Mare, square surrounded by columns a few metres away from the shore. Ostia, indeed, was built on the mouth of the Tiber, where the Harbour of Rome was built. Our visit can continue from Porta marina to contemplate the Block of Buildings of the Fountain with Lucerna, the magnificent entrance of the Schola of Trajan with nymphaeum and garden porches. Leaving via Iside behind us, we enter via del tempio Rotondo which leads to the Cardus Maximus.here an area full of Domus and Blocks of buildings opens up. We turn right, then in via della Fortuna Annonaria, which owes its name to the marvellous domus dating back to the 3rd-4th century. Finally, we can admire the building housing the Augustans, the Cult place for Mythra of Felicissimo, with its precious mosaic, the Bona Dea Sanctuary, Themistocles'Block of Buildings and the Collegial Temple. We are on the Decumanus Maximus again, opposite us there is Porta Romana, where we started our trip.
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the Quirinal - Rome

 
 
First Day
Rome: Off the beaten path

Evening
Back in Rome to enjoy a typically Roman atmosphere and drink good wine, we go to Campo dei Fiori, at the
Taverna del Campo, where a good glass of wine can be drunk with a some typical focaccia of the place. Rome has many surprises for the visitors who walk through the city, in every corner there is a monument to visit or a magnificent landscape, like the one which can be seen from the Quirinal.
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 Rome

Altar of the Country - Apt Rome

Pantheon - Rome

Cecilia Metella's Grave - Apt Rome

 
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Off the beaten path
Second Day

Morning
About five kilometres away from the centre of Rome there is a very suggestive archaeological site, in via
Appia Antica,right outside the Saint Sebastian's Door. The area, containing many documents of the Roman civilization, extends up to the hill which gradually descends towards the modern via Appia Nuova. The first monument we see on the left, after passing by the ancient Almone, tributary of the Tiber, is the Gaeta grave, of which only the core, made of concrete, remains, onto which a house was built. The building beside it is the Church of the Quo Vadis; according to the traditional stories, to Saint Peter who was fleeing because Nero was persecuting him,Jesus appeared in vision and invited him to go back. If we go on, on the right we can see the entrance for the San Callistus Catacombs , one of the most important Christian Sepulchres, whilst further on, there is the entrance to the Jewish Catacombs. The church after the catacombs, on the right, is the church of Saint Sebastian, dating back to the beginning of the IV century and then renovated in the XVII century, from which visitors can enter the catacombs were the martyr was buried. In front of us we can admire: the Mausoleum of Romulus, whose structure was similar to the Pantheon, and the Circus of Maxentius,behind the grave, 250 metres long and 92 metres wide. Let's go on Via Appia Antica. On the top there is the popular Cecilia Metella's grave, built after 50 BC. The building has a shape of a cylinder and originally had to finish on top with a conic structure. Inside there was the funeral cell. Opposite to the mausoleum there are the remains of Saint Nicholas'Church. It is worth to stop here for a moment, because from the hill we can enjoy a magnificent vista of the city.
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Domus Flavia - Rome

Villa dei Quintili - Apt Rome

Forum of Augustus - Rome

 
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Second Day
Rome: Off the beaten path

Afternoon
From here on there are many ruins, remains of tower graves: the tomb of Marcus Sevilius, a building called Seneca's grave, a round mausoleum, the tomb of the sons of Sextus Pompeus Justus with the big epigraph in verses. There are popular graves on the right as well: the grave of Saint Urban, the Licini's tomb, The Dorica Tomb, the one of Ilaro Fusco, Tyberius Claudius Secondino, and Quintus Apuleius. After the intersection with via Erode Attico, other sepulchres can be contemplated many of which are tower-shaped.
Interesting are the Tumulus of the Curiazi, dating back between the end of the Republic and the beginning of the empire, and, further on, there are the Tumuli of the Orazi. This area brings us back to the memory of the battle between the Orazi and the Curiazi, who fought here, during the reign of king Tully Hostilius. The fight granted Rome the supremacy over Alba Longa and Lazio. We proceed for 150 metres to reach the Nympheum of the Villa of the Quintili :a wide semicircle with a niche on the ground, part of the enormous residence owned by the Quintili family which can be seen today. After the remains of a thermal bath of a villa, we can see the biggest mausoleum of the Via Appia, the so-called Casal Rotondo (Round house). The Augustan building is made up of a cylinder-shaped body, which was originally covered with travertine, placed on a square base. After crossing the intersection with via di Casal Rotondo, on the left we can see the remains of an aqueduct which provided villa Quintili with water. Further on there was the small column which marked the seventh mile of the street, which, since 1848, is on the Capitol next to the Aracoeli. the route continues for about a mile with the remains of other mausoleums , up to the beginning of via Appia Nuova.
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Argentina Theatre - Rome

 
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Second Day
Rome: Off the beaten path

Evening
In the evening you can choose to have dinner in the typical restaurant
Sora Lella with its traditional and typical cuisine, and enjoy the magic atmosphere of the Tiberina Island. Then, you can watch a prose show at the popular Argentina Theatre/A>, or listen to symphonic music in the prestigious Academy of Santa Cecilia.
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 Rome

Castel Sant'Angelo - Rome

Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II - Rome

Mausoleum of Augustus - Rome

 
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Off the beaten path
Third Day

Morning
The Tiber, with its waters, which have been flowing through Rome for centuries, increases the charm of the Eternal City and gives it a magic and romantic atmosphere. Along its banks we explore several monuments which during the centuries emperors, aristocratic families chose to erect near the Tiber. Let's start from Ponte Regina Margherita, bridge which links via Cola di Rienzo to Piazza del Popolo, where there is the obelisk, the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo
And the twin churches. Continuing our walk along the river bank Lungotevere in Augusta, a boulevard flanked by trees, the first monument we see is the Ara Pacis Augustae ; the altar, built in 9 BC to celebrate the Augustan Peace, behind which we can see a strange cylinder-shaped monument: it is the Mausoleum of AugustusA>. Our visit proceeds on the Lungotevere Marzio which leads to Ponte Cavour; if we look on the right we can see, on the other side of the bridge, the enormous Tribunal, and we then go on walking up to the next bridge. We are in front of Castel Sant'Angelo, mausoleum and fortress, symbol of the Ancient and Papal Rome. Let's stop for a moment to contemplate the marvellous Ponte Sant'Angelo, one of the best bridges crossing the Tiber. From here we can see Ponte Umberto I, the solemn entrance of via Della Conciliazione which leads to Saint Peter's Basilica.
Let's walk along the Lungotevere degli Altoviti to reach the following bridge, dedicated to Vittorio Emanuele II, enriched by travertine sculpture groups, amongst which there are the Winged Victories. We can see the following bridge, which owes its name to the prince Amedeo d'Aosta. The vista here is fantastic: from one side Castel Sant'Angelo and one the other side Saitn Peter's Dome which stands out from behind the roofs of Rome. Let's turn to corso Vittorio for a moment, to visit the Costantini Wine Gallery, where the passion for wines, even the local ones, has extremely ancient origins. Then we continue crossing the bridge Amedeo d'Aosta, to reach the other side of the river, and we meet the road that leads to the Gianicolo, one of the biggest parks in the city. But we follow the Lungotevere Gianicolense which, further on, becomes Lungotevere della Farnesina, where we have to stop and admire one of the most prestigious villas of the aristocratic part of the city, Villa della Farnesina, perfect example of Renaissance architecture.
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Sinagogue - Rome

Tiberina Island - Rome

Vesta Temple, Forum Boario - Rome

 
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Third Day
Rome: Off the beaten path

Afternoon
After visiting Villla della Farnesina, let' s go to Piazza Trilussa and cross Ponte Sisto; near here there is the marvellous Palazzo Farnese, the elegant square it overlooks, decorated with two large fountains, and next to it the popular Spada Gallery, exhibiting popular paintings. We could also reach Campo dei Fiori, where every morning the popular market is held, and stop at Mensura, exclusive antiquarian shop in via Baullari. Let's go back on the Lungotevere and walk towards the Tiberina Island. While strolling along the Lungotevere, we can see the Sinagogue>, the biggest in Italy, which houses the Museum of the Jewish Community in Rome. On this side of the Tiber the flowing water dragged many debris which, in centuries, created this nice island, mostly green, on which there is the Church of Saint Bartholomew/A>, built on the same area where once stood the Aesculapius Temple. Inside it there is a precious Byzantine painting portraying the Virgin Mary with Jesus. From the island we can enjoy a suggestive vista on the river and we can also see the Ponte Rotto, on of the most ancient bridge in Rome, rebuilt many times, till it was replaced. After the island we come to the typical Trastevere neighbourhood, which during the night livens up and where people crowd hangouts and restaurants, where you can eat the most typical dishes of the Roman gastronomic tradition. From the Lungotevere Alberteschi we come to the Palatino bridge, we cross it and we reach Forum Boario. We are standing in one of the most ancient and interesting parts of Rome. In the archaeological site there are two temples: the popular Temple of Vesta,
circular, and the rectangular temple of the Fortune of Man. Here, in piazza Bocca della Verità there is the Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, under whose porch there is the popular mask, known as the Mouth of Truth; according to a popular legend, if a person had committed perjury holding his or her hand inside the mouth of the mask, he or she would have lost it. Let's continue our trip on the Lungotevere Aventino and then Lungotevere Testaccio to reach the Pyramid of Caius Cestius. It is a funeral monument built by the extremely rich praetor, tribune of the people. Our last destination is at the end of the Riva Ostiense. Not far from here, in fact, there is the beautiful Basilica of San Paolo Fuori le mura, built by Constantine on the grave of the saint.
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Fontana di Trevi - Rome

 
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Third Day
Rome: Off the beaten path

Evening
If you want to taste a simple cuisine with fish dishes, we suggest you the restaurant Al 34, in via Mario de' Fiori, where traditional dishes can be matched to other international ones. But a visit in Rome cannot finish without the spectacular Fontana di Trevi lit during the night, which offers one of the most romantic atmospheres of the Eternal City, with all the people gathered to contemplate it or to toss a coin into the water in order to come back to this marvellous city.
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