On Ponza, history and nature go hand in hand, but the sea really steals the show. A real must, is the circumnavigation of the island in a gozzo fishing boat hired from the boating cooperative. From the vantage point of the sea the island offers its best, allowing visitors to truly appreciate its geological attractions and discover all the most beautiful and characteristic spots along the coast inaccessible via land. It is best to start by heading north towards the geologically older part of the island. This immediately brings you to the beach known as the Spiaggia del Frontone, which can also be reached on foot or by shuttle boat service from the port. After crossing a number narrow bays, you begin to sail along the west coast of the island, first coming across Cala Fonte, also accessible via land by means of a road and then a flight of steps, and then Punta del Papa, dominated by a small fort surrounded by tamarisks. A little further along, Cala Feola, is very popular since it is easily reached on foot and due to its enchanting natural pools and the beach, as well as the Faraglioni di Lucia Rosa, named in memory of the lovelorn maiden who, according to tradition, drowned herself here. Then the coast begins to take on contrasting colours, until you reach one of the wonders of Ponza, the beach known as Chiaia di Luna, a fantastic, candid half-moon embraced by a vertical tufa cliff more than 100 metres high. After Punta del Fieno, which borders the beach, you can sail to Monte la Guardia and its cape, where a rocky crag drops 280 metres to the sea. This marks the final stretch in circumnavigating Ponza, where the typical whites and greys of the geologically older parts dominate the landscape, evident in the Faraglioni della Madonna. In addition to the boat trip, it is also interesting to walk around Ponza Porto (one of the two towns on the island, the other being Forna) and the surrounding area, where there is a wealth of Roman remains, and where you can visit an unusual Bourbon cemetery, as well as the church of San Silverio. In particular, not far from the port, not to be missed are the Grotte di Pilato, pools excavated from the rock by the Romans and used to farm moray eels. It it also well worth planning exploration of the island on foot, choosing from itineraries that either take a northern or southern route.

In Ponza the most famous restaurant is the Acqua Pazza. Given its renown, you must book ahead, but it is well worth it for its splendid view of the sea and for the enticing fish dishes including tagliolini with cod, linguine with perch, and catch-of-the-day carp. For an easy-going evening following an intense day on the sea, nothing is be better than to relax with a drink while listening to excellent live music at the Winspeare, a charming piano bar on the Fazio quayside (tel. 0771 80022).

A visit to the smaller islands of the northwestern group of the Pontines, Zannone and Palmarola, the latter of which is considered one of the best preserved in all of Italy. Get up early in the morning to hire a boat (or choose an organized excursion departing from Ponza), and head out towards Palmarola, a volcanic island that is mostly uninhabited, just 7 miles from Ponza. This island is at its best early in the morning when crowds of boats have yet to arrive. Palmarola's charm is perceived as soon as you land in the miniscule port, with two white houses, a little restaurant open only during the summer, and the extraordinary "grotto-houses" sculpted into the rock by the original inhabitants of the island and which are now mostly abandoned. The island is characterised by two sharp, rocky spurs just off the coast: the Faraglione di Mezzogiorno and the Faraglione di San Silverio, which is actually attached to the island and where there is a chapel dedicated to the Pope of the same name, patron saint of Ponza. The crescent-shaped beach that appears after the faraglione is a marvelous stretch of smooth coloured stones, many of which are varieties of manganese dotted with shining spheres of obsidian, the shiny, black volcanic rock for which Palmarola is famous. The early hours of the afternoon are best for enjoying the beauty of Zannone, somewhat unique among the Pontines: much greener and more massive, a rocky outcrop totally lacking in dramatic inlets and with a more regular coastline than her sister isles. Even here you must begin with a boat trip around the island departing from Varo, the only reliable port when the sea is calm, and heading westward, to the Grottelle. Having passed the Scoglio Monaco and heading towards Punta Levante you can observe the geological features of Zannone, mostly of very old metamorphic rock. From Capo Negro to the Faro there are outcrops of sedimentary rock, all covered with dense Mediterranean vegetation. Then return to the Punta del Varo with just enough time to admire the archaelogical remains of a Roman villa, with the inevitable fishing grounds. On returning to Ponza, take a boat to Ventotene, which together with Santo Stefano forms a group of the southeastern Pontines. Here a characteristic Roman port welcomes you.

An excellent suggestion in Ventotene is Le Grotte di Mast'Aniello, a restaurant is located on the first flight of steps leading from Piazza Castello to the Cala Nave beach; in a splendid position with a seaside view. Exquisite fish and seafood, but also a superb Neapolitan pizza, cooked in a wood oven. The Bar Mariposa at the Roman port is a perfect meeting place for scuba divers, old sea dogs, and voyagers.

Ventotene is a unique island, totally different from the other pearls of the Tyrrhenian Sea and even from nearby Ponza: tranquil, caressed by a crystal clear sea, it has a particular charm and offers the opportunity to enjoy your stay in direct contact with nature. The best way to begin a discovery of the island is to hire a boat and sail around it slowly, enjoying every glimpse. On returning to port, you can begin to explore Ventotene by land; its village with pastel coloured houses, nature, and numerous historical landmarks, beginning with the small church of Santa Candida, patron saint of the island, celebrated on the 20th and 21st of September with a festival marked by a quaint hot-air balloon race. The church square is connected to the Roman port by the Rampa Marina, a flight of steps dating back to Bourbon times constructed by order of Ferdinand IV by architects Francesco Carpi and Antonio Winspeare the elder. These two royal technicians are also responsible for the construction of the castle in Piazza Castello, where the Town Hall and the Archaeological Museum, housing Roman relics, now stand. About one kilometre from Piazza Castello, on the right of Via degli Olivi, the long road that divides the entire island, there is another reminder of Roman presence and inventiveness: the cisterna dei "carcerati", one of the two enormous cisterns constructed by the Romans in the southern part of the island to collect rainwater. The other cistern, that of Villa Stefania, is about 400 metres away, and could be an adventurous destination for an excursion by moonlight. Both were used to supply Villa Giulia, a luxurious residence constructed by the Emperor Augustus for the exile of his daughter. Returning to the port, be sure to take a look at the Roman fish farm, just beneath the lighthouse. Nature lovers can now head out of the village and towards the Semaforo, the perfect point for enjoying a panoramic view of the entire island, but also for birdwatching. If you still have some time, not to be missed is a visit to the island of Santo Stefano, reached in just ten minutes. This round island with steep rock faces rising from the sea is famous mostly for its Bourbon penitentiary, now abandoned. The beauty of the landscape continues underwater, as demonstrated by the fact that in order to preserve the splendid sea floors, Santo Stefano together with Ventotene forms part of a marine reserve, an excellent example of environmental conservation combined with sustainable tourism.

For winning seafood cuisine, not to be missed is Zi' Amalia, the oldest restaurant on Ventotene, in Piazza Castello, which together with port is the hub of life on the island. Schiaffoni with mussels, clams, and aubergines, linguine with lobster or monkfish, homemade scialatelli al cartoccio, oven-baked turbot with potatoes, or a grilled, catch-of-the-day platter are among some of the specialities of this restaurant. After dinner, for an original and slightly adventurous nature outing, take a torch and leave town to visit the cistern of Villa Stefania: if you are lucky enough to have a full moon, the spectacle will be unforgettable!